Some manufacturers are now supplying aluminum strips. Nail these flanges to the plywood and then nail the lower edge of the crown cornice to the timber batten supports attached to the walls. Most cornices have flanges along one side of their length that will eventually be covered up by the ceiling paneling.
#Installing a tin ceiling install
Install the Crown CorniceĪfter drawing out your central line markings, attach your crown cornice. This method ensures that any discrepancies in your ceiling are halved by the time you reach the edges of the room. Lay your metal from the center of the ceiling toward the edges. Draw lines dividing the ceiling into four, equal quarters.
You need to find five points: the center of the ceiling and the center of each of the four edges of the ceiling. This is complicated by the fact that very few rooms are built truly square. When fitting your ceiling panels, it is important to have them sitting square. If you are lucky enough to have timber ceilings, you can omit this step and nail straight onto the timber. Screw the panels through the plaster or sheetrock directly into the ceiling joists, with screws every 6 to 8 inches. In general, you measure the area of your ceiling and use enough plywood to cover that area, cutting it to fit the shape of your ceiling. How you fit the ply to your ceiling depends on the kind of ceiling it is. For the best results, remove any existing cornices before attaching the sheets to the ceiling. You can use timber battens, but plywood will make for a much easier job. Before applying the second coat of paint, we caulked all exposed edges, including where the tin abut the countertop, with a paintable latex caulk and then painted over it.The easiest way to install pressed tin is to first affix plywood to the old ceiling or walls and then nail the tin to the ply. When the primer was dry, we sanded it, wiped off the dust and applied two coats of a semigloss oil-based enamel, again using a roller and paintbrush. Instead, we followed the pattern, cutting the tin at the top of the square so the edge would be smooth and natural looking.įor the best results, follow the pattern wherever possible, and position the sheets so the cut edges are hidden in corners.Īfter we fastened all the tin in place, we wiped it down with a paint thinner in case there was any oil on it then we let the thinner dry and applied oil-based primer (Kilz) with a roller and paintbrush. If we had cut the tin to the same height as the part that's underneath the cabinet, we would have had to cut through a square, leaving an ugly edge at the top. In photo 7 you can see how the tin extends beyond the upper cabinet (to the edge of the countertop). Your pattern will dictate where the tin stops on the wall when there is no upper cabinet. When you have the sheet in position, nail it in place ( photo 6 ) then use a nail set to drive the heads flush with the tin ( photo 7 ). If you like, you could cover the edges with small moldings. We decided to butt the factory-finished edge against the countertop so the cut edge would be hidden by the underside of the cabinets. The first step is to cut the tin to size ( photos 1-3).Īpply construction adhesive ( photo 4 ) then position the tin on the wall ( photo 5 ). We ordered the tin (normally used on ceilings) by mail from Chelsea Decorative Metal Co. Replacing the brown-and-gold wall tile in the original kitchen with a light-colored backsplash contributed significantly to lightening and updating the room, and because we used pressed tin rather than the usual ceramic tile, the backsplash is also an interesting decorating element. For a simple, subtle, cost-effective alternative to tile, try pressed tin
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